BANGKOK — Tucked away from city traffic in an alley full of massage parlors, office buildings and hotels, the place looks like it could be a cocktail bar. Customers can sit in leather armchairs or claim a high stool at the wooden, L-shaped bar. The shelves, though, are absent of alcohol. In lieu of the typical bottles and glassware, there are bongs, rolling papers, grinders and dramatically lit jars of cannabis flowers like Critical Purple Cush and Amnesia Haze, the most popular strain in the shop.

曼谷——在一個充滿按摩院、辦公樓和酒店的巷子里，遠(yuǎn)離城市交通喧囂，這個地方看起來就像一家雞尾酒吧。顧客可以坐在皮質(zhì)扶手椅上，或者在木制的L形吧臺上領(lǐng)一張高腳凳。然而，貨架上并沒有酒。取而代之的是各種煙槍、卷煙紙、碾磨器和引人注目的大麻花罐，裝有如Critical Purple Cush和Amnesia Haze，這些是店內(nèi)最受歡迎的品種。

All The Smoke Lounge is one of the classier places to get high in Bangkok.

All The Smoke Lounge是曼谷最高檔的娛樂大麻場所之一。

Thousands of weed businesses have opened in Thailand since the country removed the plant from its list of banned narcotics on June 9, 2022, becoming the first country in Asia to decriminalize cannabis. In that short time, entrepreneurs such as All The Smoke owner Rithichai “Mai” Chaisingharn have changed the physical landscape of the kingdom exponentially.

自2022年6月9日泰國將大麻從禁止毒品名單中刪除，并成為亞洲首個將大麻合法化的國家以來，泰國已經(jīng)出現(xiàn)了數(shù)千家大麻企業(yè)。在這短暫的時間里，像All The Smoke的店主Rithichai “Mai” Chaisingharn這樣的企業(yè)家已經(jīng)以指數(shù)方式改變了這個王國的自然景觀。

“Weed went from being something as sinister as heroin to as innocent as a tomato overnight,” said Chaisingharn, 39, a lifelong cannabis smoker who had fantasized about opening a shop akin to a cigar store.

“大麻一夜之間從類似海洛因一樣邪惡的東西變成了類似番茄一樣無害的東西?！?9歲的Chaisingharn說道，他是一位終身大麻吸食者，曾經(jīng)幻想著開一家類似雪茄店的店鋪。
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Now there are swanky bars and dinner cruises in Bangkok, and you can find wooden shacks and beachside lounges on tourist-filled beaches. They’ve become so prolific that “it’s like Starbucks,” said Vanessa Dora Lavorato, 36, an edible maker and TV host who visited Thailand in January. “There’s a pot shop on every corner.”

如今，在曼谷有豪華的酒吧和晚餐游船，而在旅游勝地的海灘上，您可以找到木屋和海灘休息室。它們已經(jīng)變得如此普遍，以至于“就像星巴克一樣，”36歲的食品制造商和電視主持人Vanessa Dora Lavorato在一月份訪問泰國時說?！懊總€角落都有一家大麻商店。”

Travelers can get a 90-minute cannabis-themed massage treatment, complete with a soak in an infused bath, at Anantara resorts, or book half-day tours of cannabis farms. In Bangkok, the cannabis tour company Budler (pronounced like “butler) is getting off the ground, taking customers to dispensaries, cultural sites and places to eat.

游客可以享受90分鐘的大麻主題按摩療程，在Anantara度假村里泡在注入大麻的浴缸中，或者預(yù)訂大麻農(nóng)場的半日游。在曼谷，大麻旅游公司Budler（發(fā)音類似“管家”）正在起步，帶顧客去大麻店、文化景點(diǎn)和餐廳。

It’s a far cry from the country’s previous stance on weed, and where the drug stands in the rest of the region.

這與該國之前對大麻的立場，以及該藥物在該地區(qū)其他部分的地位大相徑庭。

“Southeast Asia in general has always been really very strict [on drugs],” said Bangkok-based author Joe Cummings, who wrote the first Lonely Planet guidebook for Thailand.

“總的來說，東南亞一直非常嚴(yán)格[對毒品]，”居住在曼谷的作家Joe Cummings說，他曾為泰國撰寫了第一本《孤獨(dú)星球》旅行指南。

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Scaling back the ‘war on drugs’

縮減“禁毒戰(zhàn)爭”

Before Thailand criminalized cannabis in 1935, the plant had been a standard composition of cooking and medicine. Cummings said there was a laissez-faire attitude toward cannabis when he lived in the country in the ’70s and ’80s, even after the country reinforced its narcotics laws in 1979.

在泰國于1935年將大麻定為非法之前，該植物一直是烹飪和醫(yī)藥的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)成分。Cummings表示，在他70年代和80年代居住在泰國時，對待大麻的態(tài)度非常寬松，即使在1979年該國加強(qiáng)了禁毒法律。

“It was common to see it in little restaurants, especially boat noodle restaurants,” he said. “And you could go down to a dock or any kind of pier, and the fishermen would be smoking openly.”

“在小餐館里很常見，尤其是船面店，”他說?！澳憧梢宰叩酱a頭或任何類型的碼頭，漁民們會公開吸大麻?！?/b>

Over time, the government grew more serious about its “war on drugs,” setting fire to millions of dollars’ worth of marijuana on the International Day Against Drug Abuse and Illicit Trafficking. Weed wasn’t as widely available, but it was easy enough to find in backpacker hot spots or red-light districts. Arrests for recreational use were common and could lead to fines.

隨著時間的推移，政府對其“禁毒戰(zhàn)爭”越來越重視，每年在國際禁毒和禁止非法販運(yùn)日點(diǎn)燃價值數(shù)百萬美元的大麻。大麻當(dāng)時并沒有那么普遍，但在背包客熱點(diǎn)地區(qū)或紅燈區(qū)還是很容易找到。因娛樂性使用而被逮捕是常見的，并可能導(dǎo)致罰款。

But, Cummings said, punishments for possession weren’t as severe as in neighboring countries such as Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Myanmar.

但是，Cummings說，對持有毒品的懲罰沒有馬來西亞、新加坡、印度尼西亞和緬甸等鄰國那么嚴(yán)厲。

The laws are even lighter today. And after the government removed the plant from its list of banned narcotics, more than 4,200 people incarcerated for alleged marijuana crimes became eligible for release.

如今，法律甚至更加寬松了。在政府將大麻從禁毒名單中刪除后，超過4,200名因涉嫌大麻犯罪而被監(jiān)禁的人有資格獲釋。

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Weed’s wide reach

大麻的廣泛影響

On her latest trip to sleepy Naiyang Beach, less than two miles from Phuket International Airport, Marissa Caluzzi found familiar golden sand, street food carts and whistling pine trees. But something dank was in the air.

在她最近一次前往寧靜的奈揚(yáng)海灘的旅行中，那兒距離普吉國際機(jī)場不到兩英里，Marissa Caluzzi發(fā)現(xiàn)了熟悉的金色沙灘、街頭小吃推車和風(fēng)吹呼嘯的松樹。但空氣中彌漫著大麻氣味。

“You can smell it,” said Caluzzi, 56, who has been coming to Naiyang Beach from Australia for decades. “People sit on their balconies and smoke and just come out on the beach and smoke.”

“你可以聞到它，”現(xiàn)年56歲的Caluzzi說道，她數(shù)十年來一直從澳大利亞來到奈揚(yáng)海灘。“人們坐在他們的陽臺上吸大麻，或者出來到海灘上吸大麻?！?/b>
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Smoking in public is technically illegal, punishable by a public nuisance fine of $780 or a potential three-month sentence. In April, Thailand’s Department of Health warned that enforcement of the rule would become more strict.

在公共場所吸大麻從法律上來說是違法的，可處以780美元的公共滋擾罰款或可能面臨三個月的監(jiān)禁。今年四月，泰國衛(wèi)生部警告稱該規(guī)定的執(zhí)行將變得更加嚴(yán)格。
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Cannabis products with over 0.2 percent THC are illegal in Thailand. (Most U.S. states with legalized cannabis don’t have a cap on potency.) Otherwise, anyone can now buy and consume weed if they’re over 20 years old, and not pregnant or breastfeeding. People can even take marijuana on planes for domestic flights.

在泰國，含有超過0.2％四氫大麻酚的大麻產(chǎn)品是非法的。（美國大多數(shù)大麻合法化的州都沒有大麻效力上限。）除此以外，任何年滿20歲、非孕婦或哺乳期的人現(xiàn)在都可以購買和消費(fèi)大麻。人們甚至可以在國內(nèi)航班上攜帶大麻。

“I think it is good for tourism,” said Prawit “Wit” Chankasem, 39, who has been a tour guide in Bangkok for 13 years. Weed has become a huge presence not only in tourist areas and big cities, but also in local areas where it is uncommon to see visitors or expats. “I went to some small villages in Thailand and was like, ‘Wow, you have cannabis shops here,’” Chankasem said.

“我認(rèn)為這對旅游業(yè)有好處，”現(xiàn)年39歲的Prawit “Wit” Chankasem說道，他在曼谷擔(dān)任導(dǎo)游已有13年。大麻不僅在旅游區(qū)和大城市中占據(jù)了重要地位，而且在一些很少見到游客或外籍人士的當(dāng)?shù)氐貐^(qū)也非常普遍?！拔胰ミ^泰國的一些小村莊，就像‘哇，你們這里也有大麻店’，”Chankasem說。

Chankasem, like some Thai people, is worried that the wide availability of the drug could put children at risk. That concern is at the center of emerging efforts to reclassify the plant as a narcotic, arguing that recreational use is bad for the country.

像一些泰國人一樣，Chankasem擔(dān)心該藥物廣泛的可獲得性可能會對兒童構(gòu)成風(fēng)險。這一擔(dān)憂是新興努力的核心，旨在重新將該植物歸類為毒品，并認(rèn)為娛樂性使用對國家不利。

“They think I’m selling something that’s killing society,” All The Smoke’s Chaisingharn said of his critics.

“他們認(rèn)為我在銷售殺死社會的東西，”All The Smoke的Chaisingharn對他的批評者如此說道。

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Opportunity for agriculture

農(nóng)業(yè)的機(jī)遇

Cummings said demand for cannabis across the country is so high “that even with hundreds and thousands of acres devoted to cultivation, right now there’s still a shortage,” he said. In the six months since All The Smoke opened, Chaisingharn said, seven more weed shops cropped up nearby.

Cummings稱泰國全國對大麻的需求如此之高，“即使有數(shù)百甚至數(shù)千英畝用于種植，現(xiàn)在仍然存在短缺?！彼f。自All The Smoke開業(yè)以來的六個月里，Chaisingharn說，附近又出現(xiàn)了七家大麻店。

That’s good news for people like Cha “Ice” Na, 33, a new cannabis farmer in Rayong, an eastern province on the Gulf of Thailand. After suffering from a motorbike accident before the pandemic, Na turned to medical marijuana for pain relief. (Thailand has had legalized medical marijuana since 2018.)

這對像Cha “Ice” Na這樣的人來說是個好消息，33歲，他是泰國灣東部省份拉廊的一位新大麻種植者。在疫情爆發(fā)前，Na曾遭遇摩托車事故，并轉(zhuǎn)而使用醫(yī)用大麻緩解疼痛。（泰國自2018年以來已合法化醫(yī)用大麻。）

Once he had recovered from his horrific wounds, Na felt so passionate about marijuana’s capacity to heal that he started growing plants himself. He now has three large rooms and an outdoor farm where he grows Wild Thai, which is considered a rare sativa strain of cannabis. Every month, he drives into Phuket to deliver it to Skushi, a new shop in Old Town that caters to tourists.

在從可怕的傷痛中康復(fù)后，Na對大麻的療愈能力充滿了熱情，于是他開始自己種植該植物。他現(xiàn)在有三個大房間和一個戶外農(nóng)場，在那里種植野生泰國大麻，這被認(rèn)為是一種罕見的大麻品種。每個月，他驅(qū)車前往普吉島，將大麻交付給位于老城區(qū)的一家名為Skushi的新商店，該商店專門為游客提供服務(wù)。

Farming cannabis won’t make him rich, particularly as the industry struggles with smuggled imports, but Na says it pays enough to support him, his wife, “Apple,” and their baby. He also thinks it will inspire repeat visits from tourists.

種植大麻不會讓他致富，尤其是在行業(yè)面臨走私進(jìn)口的困境下，但Na表示它足夠維持他、他的妻子“Apple”和他們的孩子的生活。他還認(rèn)為這將激發(fā)游客再次光顧的動力。

“People come to Thailand to eat good food … see beautiful scenery … relax,” he said. Cannabis enhances that atmosphere. “They’ll come back.”

“人們來泰國是為了品嘗美食...欣賞美麗的風(fēng)景...放松身心，”他說。大麻增強(qiáng)了這種氛圍。“他們會再次回來。”