Ruweyda Ahmed
Somalia.

索馬里

I went to Somalia with my family because my parents wanted us to visit and to see the country and the culture they come from.

我和我的家人一起去了索馬里,因?yàn)槲业母改赶胱屛覀內(nèi)タ纯此麄儊?lái)自的國(guó)家和文化。

I hated being in that country.

我討厭呆在那個(gè)國(guó)家。

People in Somalia would just stare at me all day because it was strange for them to see a Somali girl not wearing hijab. Women in Somalia would usually go outside wearing this:

索馬里人會(huì)整天盯著我看,因?yàn)閷?duì)他們來(lái)說(shuō),看到一個(gè)索馬里女孩不戴頭巾非常奇怪。索馬里婦女通常會(huì)戴著頭巾出門:

Relatives of my father would pity my parents, because I was an unmarried 20 year-old woman. They would, of course, then blame it on the fact that I was born in a western country. Then they would go on and laugh at my parents, because they paid for my education; my relatives thought it was an absolute waste since I was just a girl.

我父輩的親戚們會(huì)數(shù)落我的父母,因?yàn)槲沂且粋€(gè) 20 歲的未婚女子。當(dāng)然,他們會(huì)把這歸咎于我出生在西方國(guó)家。然后,他們會(huì)繼續(xù)嘲笑我的父母,因?yàn)槲业慕逃M(fèi)用是他們出的;我的親戚認(rèn)為這絕對(duì)是一種浪費(fèi),因?yàn)槲抑皇莻€(gè)女孩。

People thought it was a disgrace that Female Genital Mutilation wasn’t performed on me, and they would wonder what kind of men would want an unclean girl like me.

人們認(rèn)為沒(méi)有對(duì)我進(jìn)行女性割禮是一種恥辱,他們會(huì)想,什么樣的男人會(huì)要我這樣一個(gè)不干凈的女孩呢?

There was not a day in Somalia where I didn’t face sexism. All of it just made me hate the country and the Somali culture.

在索馬里,我沒(méi)有一天不面對(duì)性別歧視。這一切都讓我憎恨這個(gè)國(guó)家和索馬里文化。

I’m never going back to that country, even if it is where I came from.

我再也不回那個(gè)國(guó)家了,即使那是我的故鄉(xiāng)。

Adam
It's going to be very difficult to ever convince myself to ever go back to Morocco.

我很難再說(shuō)服自己重回摩洛哥了。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


I spent 2 months there traveling extensively.

我在那里待了兩個(gè)月,游歷了很多地方。

There are many amazing things about Morocco, and the quality of the leather products are amazing. We saw many wonderful things and met many wonderful people. But, we never knew the wonderful people were wonderful until after we left, because the entire time, we were expecting a scam to emerge, as everything felt very predatory.

摩洛哥有許多令人驚嘆的地方,皮革制品的質(zhì)量也令人驚嘆。我們看到了許多奇妙的東西,遇到了許多很好的人。但是,直到我們離開(kāi)后,我們才意識(shí)到這些人很好的人有‘多好’,因?yàn)閺念^到尾,都是一種騙局,因?yàn)橐磺卸冀o人一種被掠奪的感覺(jué)。

Old towns in Morocco are labyrinthine medinas and barely have any signs at all. Even some museums didn't have signs, you would need to confirm you weren't walking into someone's house as you entered. You'd walk down a winding alleyway for several minutes, only to find it's, indeed, a dead end, or that the museum is unexpectedly closed on Wednesdays. So, you often get people giving unsolicited advice that streets are dead ends, or a well known tourist spot was closed, and it was often plausible.

摩洛哥的老城區(qū)是迷宮般的麥地那,幾乎沒(méi)有任何標(biāo)志。甚至一些博物館也沒(méi)有標(biāo)志,你需要確認(rèn)你不會(huì)走進(jìn)別人的家里。你會(huì)沿著蜿蜒的小巷走上幾分鐘,結(jié)果發(fā)現(xiàn)它確實(shí)是個(gè)死胡同,或者發(fā)現(xiàn)博物館在星期三意外關(guān)閉。因此,你經(jīng)常會(huì)碰到有人主動(dòng)給你一些建議,比如告訴你哪些街道是死胡同,或者一個(gè)著名的旅游景點(diǎn)今天關(guān)閉了,而這通常是似是而非的。

These photos should give you an idea of what it's like walking the streets of the old medinas. You'll probably understand immediately how easily one could get lost.

通過(guò)這些照片,您可以了解在古老的麥地那街道上行走的感受。您可能馬上就會(huì)明白,一個(gè)人是多么容易迷路。

Even when it seems straightforward, it's not at all, because Google and other map services can only give approximate locations. You know the place you want to go is due north, and the road forks in three northerly paths. One will be a dead end, one will veer the wrong direction after 5 minutes, and the third one will get you there. The maps aren't detailed enough to be of use, so you need to combine guesswork with the help of locals. In the end, something that's a 10 minute walk as the crow flies could take a half hour to locate. However, if not in a rush, this can be a part of the charm of the old towns.

即使看似簡(jiǎn)單明了,其實(shí)不然,因?yàn)楣雀韬推渌貓D服務(wù)只能給出大概的位置。你知道你想去的地方在正北方向,而道路有三條向北的岔路。一條會(huì)是死胡同,一條會(huì)在 5 分鐘后轉(zhuǎn)向錯(cuò)誤的方向,而第三條會(huì)讓你到達(dá)目的地。地圖不夠詳細(xì),所以你需要把猜測(cè)和當(dāng)?shù)厝说膸椭Y(jié)合起來(lái)。到頭來(lái),步行 10 分鐘就能找到的地方卻要花上半個(gè)小時(shí)。不過(guò),如果不著急,這也是古鎮(zhèn)魅力的一部分。

When looking for the Bahia Palace (perhaps one of the biggest tourist sights in all of Morocco) on Google Maps, it gives clear directions. This is uncommon, because it normally can't find a route. However, the entrance isn't anywhere close to where Google says it is, but rather, it’s where I circled. That's a 5 minute difference in walking down narrow streets.

在谷歌地圖上尋找巴伊亞宮(可能是摩洛哥最大的旅游景點(diǎn)之一)時(shí),它給出了清晰的路線指示。這并不常見(jiàn),因?yàn)樗ǔJ钦也坏铰肪€的。然而,入口并不在谷歌所說(shuō)的地方,而是在我圈出的地方。在狹窄的街道上行走,這中間相差 5 分鐘。

So, for this reason, the locals can very easily assume that the foreigners they see are probably lost. Even if you know where to go, you could very well be going to the wrong location. To make matters worse, if you happened to pull out your phone, you'd immediately be swarmed by people asking you where you want to go. The thing is, though, they are just trying to get you to go somewhere else.

因此,當(dāng)?shù)厝撕苋菀渍J(rèn)為他們所看到的外國(guó)人很可能是迷路了。即使你知道該朝哪里走,也很可能走錯(cuò)地方。更糟糕的是,如果你碰巧掏出手機(jī),馬上就會(huì)有很多人問(wèn)你想去哪里。但問(wèn)題是,他們只是想讓你去別的地方。

I had to commonly yell at people that I was reading an email to get them to back off while I secretly viewed the map and tried to get the sharks from circling. You pull out a phone and you make yourself a huge target.

我不得不經(jīng)常對(duì)別人大喊大叫,說(shuō)我在看電子郵件,讓他們退后,而我同時(shí)則偷偷查看地圖,試圖讓鯊魚(不友好的人)不要圍上來(lái)。但凡你要掏出手機(jī),你就成了大肥肉。

When we were looking for that palace, a stranger decided to help us. He lived near the fake Google location and stepped out of his door. He began to get on his motorbike parked nearby. He noticed us and called over to us in perfect English, “Are you looking for the palace? It's closed.” He then pointed to an obviously shut and very large gate that was down the road.

當(dāng)我們?cè)趯ふ夷亲鶎m殿時(shí),一個(gè)陌生人決定幫助我們。他住在偽造的谷歌地點(diǎn)附近,走出了家門。他開(kāi)始騎上停在附近的摩托車。他注意到了我們,用流利的英語(yǔ)對(duì)我們說(shuō):"你們?cè)谡覍m殿嗎?它已經(jīng)關(guān)門了。然后他指著路邊一扇明顯關(guān)閉的很大的那扇門。

It would seem that the palace gate would be grander, or at least have a sign, but this guy was obviously just going about his day, and how would I know better? He then told us he was learning English, so liked to chat with people to practice. He also said that he was just going to run some errands, but was in no rush and would happily show us the nearby streets so he could practice his English. He felt bad we came all the way out to the palace on a day it was closed, so he offered to show some hospitality and take us somewhere else nearby that was cool.

宮殿的大門似乎應(yīng)該更宏偉一些,或者至少有一個(gè)標(biāo)志,但這個(gè)人明顯只是在忙他的事情,我又怎么會(huì)知道呢?然后他告訴我們,他正在學(xué)英語(yǔ),所以喜歡和人聊天來(lái)練習(xí)。他還說(shuō)他只是去辦點(diǎn)事,但并不著急,很樂(lè)意帶我們?nèi)ジ浇慕值揽纯矗@樣他就可以練習(xí)英語(yǔ)了。他覺(jué)得我們?cè)趯m殿關(guān)閉的日子大老遠(yuǎn)跑到宮殿來(lái)很不方便,所以他主動(dòng)表示要招待我們,帶我們?nèi)ジ浇渌芸岬牡胤健?/b>

We have no interest in a tour guide so politely thank him and then head on our way. He ignores that and (leaving behind the motorbike) he follows and seems genuinely kind. You almost feel bad for not giving him a chance to practice English but it's just you and your girlfriend and you want to keep it that way. You keep insisting he's being too polite but he's still following you and finally when you stop politely saying you don't want to waste his time and state clearly that we came here to explore alone does he finally leave.

我們對(duì)導(dǎo)游沒(méi)興趣,所以禮貌性地向他道謝之后就上路了。他對(duì)此置之不理(丟下摩托車)跟在后面,看起來(lái)很親切。你幾乎要為沒(méi)有給他機(jī)會(huì)練習(xí)英語(yǔ)而感到難過(guò),但是你和你的女朋友想保持兩人獨(dú)處的狀態(tài),不想他跟著。你一直堅(jiān)持說(shuō)他太客氣了,但他還是跟著你。最后,當(dāng)你不再客氣地說(shuō)不想浪費(fèi)他的時(shí)間,并明確表示我們來(lái)這里是為了單獨(dú)探險(xiǎn)時(shí),他終于離開(kāi)了。

We then wandered a little and decided to get food and figure out what else to see instead. Remember, it's not safe to look at your phone screen in public in Morocco, so we made a habit of drinking tea or eating if we needed to consult the phone for more than a few seconds. We got a wonderful meal, and the owner started talking to us. He asked if we went to the palace, and we told him no, because it was closed. He then leaned in close and said,“Never trust the suggestions of strangers here, the palace is, indeed, open, and it’s just one block over there.”

然后我們又閑逛了一會(huì)兒,決定去吃點(diǎn)東西,再想想還有什么可看的。請(qǐng)記住,在摩洛哥的公共場(chǎng)合看手機(jī)屏幕是不安全的,所以我們養(yǎng)成了一個(gè)習(xí)慣,如果需要查看手機(jī)超過(guò)幾秒鐘,就喝茶或吃東西。我們吃了一頓不錯(cuò)的飯,店主開(kāi)始和我們聊天。他問(wèn)我們是否去過(guò)皇宮,我們告訴他沒(méi)有,因?yàn)榛蕦m關(guān)門了。然后他湊近我們說(shuō):"千萬(wàn)不要相信這里陌生人的建議,宮殿確實(shí)是開(kāi)放的,而且就在那邊的一個(gè)街區(qū)。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


We go to see the palace, and along the way, someone else comes up out of nowhere and tries to convince us it was closed and that we should go to the market with him. This time, we knew better and ignored him. Sure enough, the palace was open when we arrived there. It turned out that the area Google sent us to was, indeed, a wall of the palace, and that was just an old palace gate, but the actual entrance used today was quite far away.

我們?nèi)タ磳m殿,一路上,不知從哪里冒出來(lái)一個(gè)人,試圖說(shuō)服我們宮殿已經(jīng)關(guān)閉,我們應(yīng)該和他一起去市場(chǎng)。這次,我們識(shí)相地沒(méi)有理他。果然,當(dāng)我們到達(dá)時(shí),宮殿已經(jīng)開(kāi)門了。原來(lái),谷歌讓我們?nèi)サ牡胤酱_實(shí)是宮殿的一堵墻,那只是一個(gè)古老的宮殿大門,而現(xiàn)在真正使用的入口卻在很遠(yuǎn)的地方。

Afterwards, we walked back past the original spot from earlier that day. Sure enough, a different young man stepped out that door, began to mount the same motorbike, and then, literally, mimicked the same exact lines we were given a few hours ago, at the same spot. The same door, the same motorcycle prop, the same scxt. It was an organized group of scammers trying to take advantage of the fact that Google sent people there.

之后,我們又走過(guò)了當(dāng)天早些時(shí)候的原點(diǎn)。果然,一個(gè)不同的年輕人走出了那扇門,開(kāi)始騎上同一輛摩托車,然后在同一個(gè)地方模仿了幾個(gè)小時(shí)前我們聽(tīng)到的臺(tái)詞。同樣的門,同樣的摩托車道具,同樣的劇本。這是一個(gè)有組織的騙子團(tuán)伙,試圖利用谷歌引導(dǎo)的人們。

We learned then and there that we couldn't even trust that anything wasn’t an elaborate setup. The few times we would begin to think someone genuinely just wanted to hang out or help us, the scam would soon reveal itself. Thus, we couldn't trust anyone. A few times, we only later realized we were being a**holes to regular people. But then again, we'd have never known that the first guy was a scammer if we ate at any other restaurant. That's what really sucks about Morocco. Even with those who you don't view as scammers, you're never quite sure if they aren't and you just can't see the scam.

我們當(dāng)時(shí)就意識(shí)到,我們不能相信任何事情,到底是不是精心設(shè)計(jì)的圈套。有幾次,我們開(kāi)始以為有人真的只是想和我們一起玩或幫助我們,但騙局很快就會(huì)暴露出來(lái)。因此,我們無(wú)法相信任何人。有幾次,我們后來(lái)意識(shí)到,我們做的挺混的。不過(guò)話又說(shuō)回來(lái),如果我們?cè)谄渌宛^吃飯,我們永遠(yuǎn)也不會(huì)知道第一個(gè)人是個(gè)騙子。這就是摩洛哥最糟糕的地方。即使是那些你不認(rèn)為是騙子的人,你也永遠(yuǎn)無(wú)法確定他們是不是騙子,你就是看不出他們?cè)隍_人。

Morocco has a tradition where many shopkeepers pay a percentage to anyone who helps them out as a freelance translator. So, someone helping you isn't actually working there as you would assume, or being hospitable, but rather, they are doubling what you pay because their fee is negotiated in. Let's say you can get an amazing leather bag for $20 after negotiation, this would cost $200+ in New York, but with someone helping you, you won't get it for less than $50.

摩洛哥有一個(gè)傳統(tǒng),許多店主會(huì)向免費(fèi)幫助游客的免費(fèi)翻譯們支付一定比例的報(bào)酬。因此,幫助你的人實(shí)際上并不像你想象的那樣在那里工作,也不像你想象的那樣熱情好客,而是因?yàn)樗麄兊某陝谑墙?jīng)過(guò)協(xié)商的,所以他們的酬勞是你的花銷的兩倍。比方說(shuō),經(jīng)過(guò)協(xié)商,你可以用 20 美元買到一個(gè)很棒的皮包,這在紐約需要 200 多美元,但如果有人幫你,你的價(jià)格不會(huì)低于 50 美元。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


Furthermore, even if you officially hire a guide to show you around, they are still getting that cut, so despite the fact that they're hired by you, they're negotiating against you at the markets. You pay a higher a price so they hurt you instead of helping. However, things are of such good quality and prices are so low that it's still a great deal. But, for someone like me who enjoys bargaining through language barriers, it can be suffocating to have volunteer handlers emerge everywhere. A common conversation at the beginning of each shop visit would be to ensure the person we were speaking to was actually the shop keeper and not a secret guide.

此外,即使您正式聘請(qǐng)導(dǎo)游帶您游覽,他們也會(huì)從中抽成,因此,盡管他們是受雇于您,但他們?cè)谑袌?chǎng)上的談判卻與您背道而馳。你付出了更高的價(jià)格,所以他們非但沒(méi)有幫助你,反而傷害了你。不過(guò),東西質(zhì)量好,價(jià)格低,還是很劃算的。但是,對(duì)于像我這樣喜歡討價(jià)還價(jià)即使有語(yǔ)言障礙的人來(lái)說(shuō),到處都有志愿服務(wù)者出現(xiàn),會(huì)讓人感到窒息。每次逛商店之初,我們都會(huì)有一個(gè)共同的話題,那就是確保與我們交談的人是真正的店員,而不是秘密導(dǎo)游。

For carpets, which are incredibly expensive, that extra fee makes a big difference. We shopped around a lot for carpets, and we really wanted a shaggy 3m x 4m. But, when we finally found what we liked, the guy refused to go down on price. On the last day, we popped back in, made it clear we felt it should be x amount, and explained to him that we were leaving ASAP, and it was a now or never sale opportunity.

對(duì)于昂貴得令人難以置信的地毯來(lái)說(shuō),額外的費(fèi)用會(huì)使其天差地別。我們買地毯的時(shí)候貨比三家,我們非常想要一塊 3 米 x 4 米的長(zhǎng)毛地毯。但是,當(dāng)我們最終找到自己喜歡的地毯時(shí),店主卻拒絕降價(jià)。最后一天,我們又去找他,明確表示我們覺(jué)得應(yīng)該是 x 費(fèi)用,并向他解釋說(shuō)我們馬上要離開(kāi)這里了,這是一個(gè)機(jī)不可失、時(shí)不再來(lái)的銷售機(jī)會(huì)。

He stated that he was, indeed, giving us x amount, but had to charge y amount to cover the fees for the guy who introduced us. If he didn't pay that guy and people found out we bought his carpet, he'll lose those people bringing guys in, and there were so many other carpet dealers that he would go out of business without guides feeding him customers. We were shocked because nobody had brought us in. There was an “employee” at the entrance who saw us looking at the carpets hanging outside, and he showed us a few of his carpet shops before bringing us to his shop that had stock of the kind we were looking to buy. It turns out that he was neither an employee, nor the owner, but that didn't stop him from passing himself off as one. The owner couldn't comprehend that we would have found his shop anyway. We’re actually still emailing each other, as he'd agreed to sell it at what we wanted now, but we're terrified that what arrives at our door will be something other than what we ordered.

他說(shuō),他確實(shí)給了我們 x 美元,但必須收取 y 美元來(lái)支付給介紹我們的人的費(fèi)用。如果他不付錢給那個(gè)人,人們發(fā)現(xiàn)我們買了他的地毯,他就會(huì)失去那些帶人來(lái)的人的信用,而且還有那么多其他地毯經(jīng)銷商,如果沒(méi)有導(dǎo)游給他提供客戶,他就會(huì)倒閉。我們很震驚,因?yàn)闆](méi)有人帶我們進(jìn)去。門口有個(gè) "員工 "看到我們?cè)诳磼煸谕饷娴牡靥?,他帶我們看了幾家地毯店,然后把我們帶到了他的店里,那里有我們想買的那種地毯。原來(lái),他既不是店員,也不是店主,但這并不妨礙他冒充店主。店主無(wú)法理解我們?cè)趺磿?huì)找到他的店。實(shí)際上,我們還在互相發(fā)郵件,因?yàn)樗呀?jīng)同意按照我們現(xiàn)在想要的價(jià)格出售,但我們很害怕送到我們家門口的東西會(huì)和我們訂購(gòu)的不一樣。

The shops and restaurants don't care because these freelance guides or touts are specialists and often drive revenue they wouldn't otherwise get both in price gouging and sales volume. This happens everywhere, not just with artisan shops, but in convenience stores, restaurants, and pharmacies.

商店和餐館并不在意,因?yàn)檫@些自由導(dǎo)游或兜售者都是專家,他們往往會(huì)通過(guò)哄抬物價(jià)和提高銷售量來(lái)增加收入。這種情況隨處可見(jiàn),不僅在手工藝品店,在便利店、餐館和藥店也是如此。

It can be pretty mind boggling how prent it may be. For example, you'll be dropping off laundry at a cleaners. This is far off the beaten path, not a tourist cleaners at all. The person in front of you who was there before you arrived, and has actual business picking up laundry, will kindly help you translate, as they adeptly recognize that the old man running the shop won't speak English.

它的普遍性可能會(huì)讓人匪夷所思。例如,您要把衣服送到一家洗衣店。這家洗衣店很偏僻,根本不是什么游客洗衣店。你前面的那個(gè)人在你來(lái)之前就在那里了,而且他確實(shí)是來(lái)取衣服的,他會(huì)很友好地幫你翻譯,因?yàn)樗麄兒芮宄?,開(kāi)店的老人不會(huì)說(shuō)英語(yǔ)。

You thank him for taking ten seconds to help, and he asks if you have seen the mosque yet because it's so beautiful. You say yes, and you plan on going, but are worried he wants to guide you there, so you say you're actually just trying to find a place to eat. He'll insist you eat at this place just around the corner because it has the best something or other. You thank him for the advice, part ways as he heads home with his laundry in the opposite direction, and you go enter the restaurant.

你感謝他花十秒鐘幫了你的忙,他問(wèn)你有沒(méi)有看過(guò)清真寺,因?yàn)槟抢锾懒?。你說(shuō)是的,你打算去,但又擔(dān)心他想帶你去,所以你說(shuō)你其實(shí)只是想找個(gè)吃飯的地方。他堅(jiān)持要你去街角的這個(gè)地方吃飯,因?yàn)槟抢镉凶詈贸缘臇|西。你感謝他的建議,當(dāng)他拿著洗好的衣服朝相反的方向回家時(shí),你和他分道揚(yáng)鑣,然后你走進(jìn)了那家餐廳。

“Wow,” you think, “That guy was so nice and helpful, what a nice experience.”

“天那” 你想想, “這家伙真的很友好,樂(lè)于助人,真是一次愉快的經(jīng)歷.”

Ten minutes later, that same person is suddenly waiting your table. You realize that you've been fooled again, but it's too late, you already ordered. You think that maybe his family owns the restaurant, but he doesn't own the restaurant, he is freelancing.

十分鐘后,同一個(gè)人突然出現(xiàn)在你的桌前。你意識(shí)到自己又上當(dāng)了,但為時(shí)已晚,你已經(jīng)點(diǎn)了菜。你想,也許餐廳是他家開(kāi)的,但餐廳不是他開(kāi)的,他是個(gè)自由職業(yè)者。

You're handed a bill that's not outrageous, but three times the typical meal cost. They specialize in one kind of food, so there are no menus, and it's plausible that the real price is in that neighborhood, so you don't make a fuss over it. But inside, you feel like a f***ing idiot for falling for the scam yet again.

遞給你的賬單并不離譜,但卻是一般餐費(fèi)的三倍。他們只經(jīng)營(yíng)一種食物,所以沒(méi)有菜單,實(shí)際價(jià)格也在這個(gè)范圍內(nèi),所以你也沒(méi)有大驚小怪。但內(nèi)心卻覺(jué)得自己像個(gè)白癡,又一次上當(dāng)受騙了。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


And then, when you go to leave, the person follows you and insists that you now go check out a leather shop. You finally get rid of him. The next day, he sees you on the street and comes over, acting like you’re best friends. You try being polite, but he keeps following. Finally, you make it clear that you want to be alone, and then he'll start yelling at you angrily, throwing all kinds of insults at you before walking away.

然后,當(dāng)你要離開(kāi)時(shí),那個(gè)人跟著你,堅(jiān)持要你現(xiàn)在去一家皮革店看看。你終于擺脫了他。第二天,他在街上看到你,就走過(guò)來(lái),一副你們是好朋友的樣子。你試著表現(xiàn)得禮貌些,但他還是一直跟著。最后,你明確表示想一個(gè)人靜一靜,然后他就會(huì)開(kāi)始憤怒地對(duì)你大喊大叫,在走開(kāi)之前對(duì)你進(jìn)行各種侮辱。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


It wasn't just shops or tourist sites. We would literally have to shoo away fake waiters at restaurants. It was really blatant sometimes, like all the staff was wearing uniforms, and you saw someone in plain clothes walk in after seeing you from the street. They would insist on serving you, even lie about being the manager, until they finally left.

不僅僅是商店或旅游景點(diǎn)。在餐館里,我們不得不把假冒的服務(wù)員趕走。有時(shí)真的是明目張膽,比如所有員工都穿著制服,而你在街上看到一個(gè)穿著便裝的人走進(jìn)來(lái)。他們會(huì)堅(jiān)持為你服務(wù),甚至謊稱自己是經(jīng)理,直到最后離開(kāi)。

I learned the Arabic numbers really fast, because it became apparent very early on that we were getting significantly different prices. In a country like Nepal, we also knew that we were paying more than the menu price, but they would only up it a little bit, not enough to require me to memorize the Hindu numbers. You can even justify paying $2 instead of $1 as an inconvenience fee because that Nepalese guy has to work harder to figure out what you want to eat.

我很快就學(xué)會(huì)了阿拉伯?dāng)?shù)字,因?yàn)楹茉缇桶l(fā)現(xiàn)我們拿到的價(jià)格明顯不同。在尼泊爾這樣的國(guó)家,我們也知道我們付的錢比菜單上的價(jià)格高,但他們只會(huì)提高一點(diǎn)點(diǎn),還不至于要求我記住印度教的數(shù)字。你甚至可以支付2美元而不是1美元作為一種給對(duì)方帶來(lái)不便的小費(fèi),因?yàn)槟莻€(gè)尼泊爾人必須很努力地弄清楚你想要吃什么。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


You'd see that no item on the menu was more than 20, and the “manager” who magnanimously insisted on translating for you said every item is at least 80. The thing is, unless you're extremely firm, they just won't f*** off. Only a few restaurants helped us get them to scatter, and it was always only after we protested. After all, it's less work and more money for them. For this reason, once we found a restaurant that was pleasant, we'd become regulars. At one place where we ate at everyday, a waiter just walked up and slapped one of the fake managers without uttering a word to him at all. We always tipped well, but we tipped even more after that.

你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)菜單上的每樣菜都不超過(guò) 20 元,而寬宏大量堅(jiān)持為你翻譯的 "經(jīng)理 "卻說(shuō)每樣菜至少 80 元。問(wèn)題是,除非你態(tài)度非常堅(jiān)決,否則他們就是不肯滾蛋。只有幾家餐館幫我們把他們趕走,而且每次都是在我們提出抗議之后。畢竟,這對(duì)他們來(lái)說(shuō)既省事又省錢。因此,一旦我們找到一家討人喜歡的餐館,我們就會(huì)成為???。在一家我們每天都去吃飯的餐館里,一個(gè)服務(wù)員走過(guò)來(lái)就給了一個(gè)假經(jīng)理一耳光,根本沒(méi)跟他說(shuō)一句話。我們給的小費(fèi)一向很高,但從那以后,我們給的小費(fèi)就更多了。

A few times, even the restaurants themselves would try to rip us off directly. If it was too egregious (a tea shop demanding $20 for something we drank every day for an already overpriced $1), I wouldn't pay anything and just walk out. I used to try negotiating to make the bill correct, but then realized that I was rewarding that behavior, so I made a policy of just walking out without paying instead of negotiating it if they hit a multiple of 5x or more the actual price. Not once did they ever even follow me out of the restaurant.

有幾次,甚至連餐館那邊都想直接宰我們。如果情況太過(guò)惡劣(一家茶葉店要價(jià) 20 美元,而我們每天喝的東西僅要價(jià) 1 美元),我就什么也不付,直接走人。我曾經(jīng)試圖通過(guò)協(xié)商來(lái)糾正他們的要價(jià),但后來(lái)意識(shí)到我是在獎(jiǎng)勵(lì)這種行為,所以我制定了一項(xiàng)政策,如果他們要價(jià)是實(shí)際價(jià)格的 5 倍或更多,我就不付錢直接走人,而不是進(jìn)行協(xié)商。他們甚至沒(méi)有一次跟著我走出餐廳。

That's the problem with Morocco. It forces you to choose to become either an easy mark or an a**hole. You have to assume everyone is trying to f*** you. I know there were times where people were genuinely just trying to help a foreigner that appeared to be lost, but I couldn't take that chance. I’d rather be an a**hole to a few good people than a mark to everyone else.

這就是摩洛哥的問(wèn)題所在。它讓你不得不選擇成為一個(gè)容易被騙的人或者一個(gè)混蛋。你必須假設(shè)每個(gè)人都想搞你。我知道有些時(shí)候人們真的只是想幫助一個(gè)似乎迷路的外國(guó)人,但我不能冒這個(gè)險(xiǎn)。我寧愿成為少數(shù)好人眼中的混蛋,也不愿成為其他人眼中的 "肥肉"。

Paying more than locals and getting ripped off, that's part of the territory anywhere you travel. But in Morocco, it's orders of magnitude different.

在任何地方旅行都會(huì)遇到當(dāng)?shù)卦卓偷那闆r,但在摩洛哥,情況卻大不相同。

As we were there for two months, we'd often stay in a single area for a long time and really get to know the neighborhood well. Yet, like clockwork, on the same walk home every day down the same roads we knew very well, we would always have people trying to convince us it was a dead end. Sometimes, when in a new area, it actually was a dead end, but over 90% of the time ,it wasn't. People would always lie to get you to change your plans or to change your route in a manner that would benefit then financially.

因?yàn)槲覀冊(cè)谀抢锒毫袅藘蓚€(gè)月,所以經(jīng)常會(huì)在一個(gè)地方待上很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間,對(duì)附近的環(huán)境非常熟悉。然而,就像上了發(fā)條一樣,每天走在我們非常熟悉的同一條路上回家時(shí),總會(huì)有人試圖說(shuō)服我們這是一條死路。有時(shí),到了一個(gè)新的地方,那里確實(shí)是死胡同,但 90% 以上的時(shí)候都不是。人們總是會(huì)撒謊,讓你改變計(jì)劃或改變路線,以獲得經(jīng)濟(jì)利益。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


It wasn't just market guides trying to get us to check out some carpets, either. Sometimes, it was very dangerous. A few times at night, we'd get some very aggressive teenage boys insisting we were going the wrong way and to go down a different route. Once in Fez, different boys would always tell us to go down the same alleyway by our hotel each night.

這也不僅僅是市場(chǎng)導(dǎo)游想讓我們?nèi)タ匆恍┑靥?。有時(shí),這里非常危險(xiǎn)。有幾次在晚上,我們會(huì)遇到一些非常兇悍的男孩,堅(jiān)持要我們走錯(cuò)路,換一條路走。到了非斯之后,每晚都會(huì)有不同的男孩讓我們從酒店旁邊的同一條小巷走。

One day, during the daylight, we decided to check out what this alleyway was all about. Sure enough, it wrapped around like a U, but was a dead end. It, was at best, a prank to waste our time, at worst a mugging ambush. It was a very sobering thought that little kids were possibly directing us into an ambush. I get that traveling can be dangerous, and that tourists carry a lot of cash, so they are ideal targets in any country. But, only in Morocco will children be a part of the setup.

一天,我們決定去看看這條小巷到底是怎么回事。果然,它像 U 字形一樣繞了一圈,但卻是個(gè)死胡同。往好了說(shuō),這是一個(gè)浪費(fèi)我們時(shí)間的惡作劇,往壞了說(shuō),這是一個(gè)搶劫伏擊地。想到小孩子可能會(huì)把我們帶入埋伏圈,我不禁肅然起敬。我明白,旅行是危險(xiǎn)的,游客攜帶大量現(xiàn)金,因此他們?cè)谌魏螄?guó)家都是理想的目標(biāo)。但是,只有在摩洛哥,孩子們才會(huì)成為設(shè)局的一部分。

Another street we walked down had crude paper signs pointing to a hostel. I found that strange because I knew where that particular hostel was, as we walked past it each day. It was midday, and I was curious, so we followed it. Further and further we walked, and the signs led us deeper into a funnel. It ended in a dead end. I gathered the signs on my way back out and dropped them off at the hostel in question. They thanked me and pointed to a large sign at the front desk that warned their guests not to follow any signs leading to the hostel. Apparently, this is a regularly set trap, and muggings happen quite a bit. We were never mugged, but a few times at night, we were definitely being followed by some young men. We soon made it a point not to go out after dinner.

我們走過(guò)的另一條街道上有一些簡(jiǎn)陋的紙質(zhì)標(biāo)志,指向一家旅舍。我覺(jué)得很奇怪,因?yàn)槲抑滥羌衣玫暝谀睦?,因?yàn)槲覀兠刻於家?jīng)過(guò)那里。當(dāng)時(shí)正值中午,我很好奇,于是我們就跟著它走。我們?cè)阶咴竭h(yuǎn),路標(biāo)把我們帶進(jìn)了一個(gè)漏斗。盡頭是一個(gè)死胡同。我在回去的路上收集了路標(biāo),并把它們送到了那家旅店。他們向我表示感謝,并指著前臺(tái)的一個(gè)大牌子,上面警告他們的客人不要跟隨任何通往旅舍的路標(biāo)。顯然,這是一個(gè)經(jīng)常設(shè)置的陷阱,搶劫事件時(shí)有發(fā)生。我們從未被搶劫過(guò),但有幾次晚上,我們肯定被一些年輕人跟蹤了。我們很快就養(yǎng)成了晚飯后不出門的習(xí)慣。
原創(chuàng)翻譯:龍騰網(wǎng) http://www.top-shui.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處


Now, I should clarify that this rarely happened in Casablanca, where there are few tourists. It also was infrequent in Meknes. When we were in the modern parts of other cities like Fez, Tangier, Marrakech, etc., and it was very relaxing - quite a normal feeling. The thing is, though, if you visit Morocco, you don't want to see the modern or industrial cities, you want to see the medinas.

現(xiàn)在,我想要說(shuō)明的是,上述這種情況在游客很少的卡薩布蘭卡很少發(fā)生。在梅克內(nèi)斯也很少發(fā)生。當(dāng)我們?cè)诜撬?、丹吉爾、馬拉喀什等其他城市的現(xiàn)代化地區(qū)時(shí),這種感覺(jué)非常輕松--很正常。但問(wèn)題是,如果您到摩洛哥旅游,您不會(huì)想去看現(xiàn)代化或工業(yè)化的城市,而是想去看麥地那。

The medinas are simply amazing. We could happily spend all day just wandering the streets and taking it all in. They are truly unique and beautiful places. There's a very good reason we stayed there so long. It also has amazing craftsmanship, from carved wood, to carpets, and especially leather. Some leather that you find in shops there for a couple dollars is finer than pieces which cost much more back home. Morocco was a wonderful experience, and there's a lot of stuff I actually really want to return to the store to purchase because I regret not buying it.

麥地那地令人嘆為觀止。我們可以花一整天的時(shí)間在街上閑逛,盡情欣賞。它們是真正獨(dú)特而美麗的地方。我們?cè)谀抢锒毫羧绱酥檬怯性虻?。那里還有令人驚嘆的手工藝品,從木雕到地毯,尤其是皮革。你在那里的商店里花幾美元就能買到的一些皮革,比國(guó)內(nèi)昂貴得多的皮革還要精細(xì)。摩洛哥是一次美妙的經(jīng)歷,有很多東西我真的很想再去商店買,因?yàn)槲液蠡跊](méi)有買。

Now, there are many, many things I love about Morocco. But, when every day includes at least one interaction that has you on your toes, it can be a pretty awful experience.

到現(xiàn)在,我喜歡摩洛哥的很多很多東西。但是,如果每天都有至少一次讓你提心吊膽的交流,那就會(huì)是一種非常糟糕的體驗(yàn)。

I'm an extremely well versed traveler, you name it I've backpacked there. From jungles, mountains, and desert to sleeping outside and hitchhiking. There are places that can be dangerous to be at night and places where the tourists always get ripped off, but never have I ever been surrounded by a local population that happily lies to me to change all my plans just on the off chance I may walk past a shop and, with their assistance, buy $2 of argan oil.

我是一個(gè)常年旅行的人,只要你說(shuō)得出的地方,我都背包去過(guò)。從叢林、高山、沙漠到露宿和搭便車。有些地方晚上會(huì)很危險(xiǎn),有些地方游客總是被宰,但我從來(lái)沒(méi)有被當(dāng)?shù)厝税鼑^(guò),他們很樂(lè)意向我撒謊,改變我所有的計(jì)劃,只因?yàn)槲铱赡軙?huì)路過(guò)一家商店,在他們的幫助下,買到 2 美元的摩洛哥堅(jiān)果油。